Hiya Chris,
Hah! News to me.
And that's what makes VWs so interesting. You learn something new each day!
| VW Automatic Register |
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08 September 2010, 04:51
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1
on: 01 September 2010, 08:42
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| Started by Bookwus - Last post by Bookwus | ||
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Hiya Chris,
Hah! News to me. And that's what makes VWs so interesting. You learn something new each day! |
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2
on: 01 September 2010, 00:45
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| Started by garymurch - Last post by garymurch | ||
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Hi Mike, Thank you for all the useful information.I have everything cleaned up and now I am waiting on the new part.It should be here tomorrow.Hopefully this will fix my problem.I'm sure that I will have more questions in the future. Thanks Gary
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3
on: 01 September 2010, 00:44
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| Started by Bookwus - Last post by cjmck422 | ||
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Hi Mike, I've been doin' a little more research on this topic, and the general consensus I get seems to be that there is an equal distance ahead of the shift rod hanger and behind, so therefore, the shift rod bushing can be replaced (in a super) without completely removing the shift rod from the vehicle. Once the shift lever is removed, the coupler and return spring mount removed, the shift rod can be inched forward through the shift lever hole using long needle-nose pliers (also using a bent coat hanger to hook around the shift rod and support it level) sliding it forward just enough to clear the hanger bracket and slip the bushing in place, lube up the bushing, and slide the rod back into place (applying grease to the rod every few inches to keep the bushing lubed). Sounds like a good approach, in theory, anyway. So when my new bushing arrives, I'll give it a try, otherwise, I'll have to see just how the frot "crash box" is removed to gain access to the shift rod hole. I'll keep you posted. Thanks.
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4
on: 31 August 2010, 07:19
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| Started by Bookwus - Last post by Bookwus | ||
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Hiya Chris,
Jeez! Truth be told, I am not a SuperBeetle kinda guy. Not that I don't like them; I just don't have a buncha experience with 'em. But I'm thinking that the shift rod removal process ought to be pretty much the same. One still has to remove it from the front of the center tunnel (that means through the framehead and that #3 oval plate. You seem to have found cover #2. No cover #1? |
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5
on: 31 August 2010, 00:02
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| Started by Bookwus - Last post by cjmck422 | ||
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Hey Mike, sorry, I forgot to mention this is a '71 Super. Isn't the process a little different, or pretty much the same? I've got the round cover in the spare tire well, but that only covers the top side of the accordion-like metal support
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6
on: 30 August 2010, 14:21
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| Started by Bookwus - Last post by Bookwus | ||
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Hiya cjmck,
There are three cover plates to remove in order to extract the shift rod from the front of the car. In order from front to rear they are.......... 1. Round cover plate at the bottom front of the spare tire well 2. More or less round cover plate at the rear of the spare tire well 3. Oval cover plate on the framehead |
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7
on: 30 August 2010, 09:46
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| Started by bowlingbrad - Last post by 68autobug | ||
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Hi Guys
I bought a used bosch SVDA dizzy a while back... I replaced My 009 dizzy with the replacement SVDA dizzy trying to use the cap the same as it was in the 009... naturally lol ?? the engine did not go at all.... I panicked.. lol and took the SVDA and quickly replaced it for My 009 and the engine went OK.... YIKES... I panicked... why won't My engine go... the dizzy cap was the same in the same place...?? well, You do need to do what Sean has said and take notice of everything... lol I just love My new SVDA from aircooled.net... I just love driving My beetle... its so smooth.... I could NEVER go back to a 009... cheers LEE |
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8
on: 30 August 2010, 04:35
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| Started by Bookwus - Last post by cjmck422 | ||
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Hey Mike, just a quick update. Got the engine pulled out, and removed the old seal, the rubber was completely petrified and very sloppy fit on t/c hub. Ordered up a new seal, should arrive in a few days. As for the shift rod bushing is currently MIA, I'm replacing that as well, however, there appears to be a crumple zone ahead of the frame head, is this part removable, or do I have to lift the body to gain access to the shift rod opening?
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9
on: 29 August 2010, 04:35
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| Started by garymurch - Last post by Bookwus | ||
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Hiya Gary,
Welcome to VWAR! I rebuild clutch servos for a local repair shop here in Portland. I have never used any kind of sealant. The new diaphragm should sandwich very nicely between the halves of the servo canister. Do make sure that you clean up the halves of the clutch servo can. However, you do want to make sure that 1. the canister halves fit together evenly making sure neither half is warped or out of round and 2. the sealing surface of each half is smooth and not pitted. At that point the new diaphragm should fit nicely between the halves and, in turn, the halves can easily be clamped together with the new clamp/band. And be sure to remember that hint I dropped your way over on the Samba.  |
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10
on: 29 August 2010, 02:00
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| Started by garymurch - Last post by garymurch | ||
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I need to replace the diaphragm in the servo on my 1969 VW, and when I took it apart,it has some sort of gasket sealant around the outside edge of the rubber diaphragm.Should I use sealant on the new one when I put it back together and if so What should I use? Thanks for any help Gary
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